I was to be at Taigh Chearsabhagh, North Uist for 6 weeks gathering material for Messages. Ferry from Oban 7 hrs and then a 50 mile ride enough time to lose the city and now here I am in cowboy country. all sheep and passing places. This is my email diary.

19 AUG Set out for messages "only 10 miles to the Sollas Co-op." Wind, rain & sheep for company. find Co-op & sky clears, revealing distant beach. Load up messages and ride over cattle grid..load up again watch keenly for bulls but only docile long haired black cows stare. Over soft green mounds into ruts until white sand edges out green pasture a shiny red camper van and a turquoise sea for miles and on it an orange sail skidding. I stand on cliff and gasp, the tropics if not for the deep cleansing sand blast, decide on a sheltered spot and film surfers manouveres until camera & I covered with sand. Find courage to approach, first lesson learnt wind drowns out Roman message . On return a mercy mission for sheep bleating with head stuck in fence.

20 AUG Skys are stormy so decide to tackle the TC pc 'no sound editor' problem. finally capture the sound of lapping water, animate a sailor and call it a morning. Bump into Italian surfer in cafe, didn't recognise him with his clothes on he had no such problem, cycling means travelling light and I still haven't broached the laundry problem I fear it may truly be rocks by the loch. Found the outdoor centre, a frightening array of wetsuits and canoes scared me off but I may venture back. Mists rolling in from the sea tomorrow is going to be a scorcher!

21 AUG Awoke to the sound of a motor, single cylinder & stepped out into sunshine.....to see a small lobster boat dropping its pots in the bay. Stood and watched a while then it started to rain. Breakfast, and Clinton is retaliating and our Tone approves, it's hard to grasp, that and the burials in Omagh I switch off and look out of the window, no TV, no newspaper. Just a shortage of clean clothes I buy some sunshine soap and a nail brush and unbeknownst to me a washing line is being rigged on the beach so I arrive home this evening to the homely sight of washing blowing on the line and my new friend, Coistie waiting with wagging tail and milky eyes for a stick to be thrown, He is a regular at 5 when the cafÈ offload their unsold cakes, I may be joining him. I am already in need of more messages. Wrote a letter to PC, Officers Mess, Balav.. introducing myself and my project and enquiring about a ride to St Kilda, here's hoping. I want to launch a few messages. I had hoped they would head off around the world but the gulf stream apparently only comes this way. Filmed some graffitti on a beautiful crumbling house, that's a message isn't it. Just spoken to pal T she's coming on Mon.

22 AUG Radio not working! Last night in the Lochmaddy Hotel I met the grandson of the Guinnes Book of Records Tallest Man in Scotland. he's from Berneray and was drinking with his visiting sisiter, invited me to join them, I accepted with perhaps too much enthusiasm now have slight hangover. J gave me a lift to Benbecula, the stables and the school an exhibit amazingly history of the postal service, take notes,on Scarp rocket. Stop at co-op for more food. home and search the newspaper can find no news of the record breaking unmanned aircraft landing in S. Uist.

23 AUG Awoke to sound of lapping water..seemed very close and sure enough the tide is high, and its raining I figured the trip to Vallay, another once occupied island, would be cancelled but at 11 fiona and her cousin pulled up, we drove to the edge of the sea and waited for the tide to drop to walk accross, I went bare foot, orange toe nails white sand . Then to the grandest and saddest house, more tales of evil landowners, madness and alcohol then over the machas, dotted with harebells and ladies bed straw to the white sand dunes and grey sea, which as we headed back to catch the tide turned turquoise again & the sun came out, ... Back to F's house warm sun and geraniums and from every window the sea then to J and A's for Sunday roast and much art talk. A and J invite me sailing tomorrow lets hope the weather holds. Think I saw a shooting star tonight, so many, I am under the milky way.

24 AUG Sun is out so we went sailing, first time for me. Fabulous, saw, porpoises, a small whale spouting, seals and had tea in a yellow plasic container in the middle of fish farm "the fish are jumping" salmon playing leap frog over huge multicoloured jelly fish caught up, no wish to eat farmed salmon now. others spied an otter, I missed it, too busy filming the bottom of the boat and avoiding the boom, lost eye piece on new binoculars, cold, wet and with aching non existent stomach muscles, had a wonderful time, unforgettable. Met T off the ferry, midges are biting....

26 AUG Set off cycling with tent, sun blazing arrived at beach hawaii, after a brief fill up at the co-op, wine, trout,and a bargain barby that lights with one match! take time choosing camping spot in the dunes, the midges very threatening, take more time putting up borrowed easy to assemble but no guy ropes included tent..Then head off for a spot of work....filming the lapping waves, blue frilly jellyfish, and footprints in the white sand..stop frame tide. Head back for barby eventually lit and cooked and ate and drank, & it is dark. One more picture to take and I need assistance.. so with maglites lit we set off. T falls down a rabbit hole...in pain but thanks to placebo of allergy tablets she slept allright , next morning still unable to walk. I cycle 2 miles to phone box, call around trying to find T's pal with a camper van but no phone eventually local PO puts me in touch with his dad Angus who in turn leads me to son Angus who informs me that friend has gone to Barra... I wait for coop to open buy some pain killers, chat to bus driver who says I can leave T's bke at his and he'll drop it in Lochmaddy later, return to T who trys to walk and can't not even with bike and me to support. Its a long way to the road..I set off again to phone for a taxi but the island grapevine has kicked in and J is coming down the track.. T & J head off while I film and attempt a swim, tide going out fast and it was cold. Cycle back picturing T with her feet up, stop to snap the post box and meet the post master delivering ask him to pose which he does with natural grace I suggest he let me interview him, & we have a date. At TC I find T has been taken to hospital in S.Uist 100 mile round trip, with a broken foot oops Sit in sunshine listening to gaellic psalms and reading poems and wait wondering if T will be smiling. Norm has unearthed a wheel chair..I hope its not needed..but it is, she's still smiling...six weeks in plaster.. no driving and no cycling she will be scuppered on the mainland, but for now I have just been wheeling her along the lochs looking for otters and frightening the policeman on his bike, a ringer for Hamish MacBeth. Who will I dance with at the Cheilid now?

27 AUG Another restless night on the floor T got the bed. I was told today that Officer Paddy is trying to make arrangements for me to visit St.Kilda once the isle of web footed folk and floating messages, by boat its rough and over 50 miles, maybe a helicopter might be nice.. T gone out in camper van for the day and tonight she is in the Court House b&b. Luxury

28 AUG Spend day on here, writing letters, trying to compose info about Messages lots of phone calls one from P C Royal Airforce...Nimrod connection made, some talk of my accompanying the messages! Excitement, but on finally speaking to Flt.Lt - 206 Squadron this seems unlikely, now have to wait to see. We go to the Lochmaddy hotel for dinner before the dance T is a sitting target for midges and we race there with a swarm chasing behind. The mountain behind is red, reflected in the sea it's beautiful but the midges are not. Bar is busy, a singer and accordian player set up, we scoot into the public bar on the pretence of buying norm a drink. The pool table is blue. Find out the cheiled is barless so get a carry out or ten and head up to the hall. We arrive and join the que, T's steely landlady is on the door, Norm takes T,s chair and we find her a seat near the toilets. Dance all night until Archie is thrown out by the posturing lads. I did a wee polka with wee Anna, quite a sight, We leave the young ones to it around 2.30 push T to her b&b then drunkenly push L back to her VW van. I fall into bed and dream of dancing.

29 AUG Ran with empty wheelchair around the lock and up to the Court house, to retrieve Tracey, as yesterday she had left half a sausage, again I ate it and the not so steely landlady bought me a cup of coffee....so then I had some toast and marmalade and we chatted about the ceilidh. The sun was really shining the best yet so we strolled leisurely back to here I finally sent my nimrod request letter and we set off to Smelly Bay to look for things to hold my messages. Found loads of plastic bottles, a giant crab, a lethal smoke rocket, a pair of green wellies my size, lots of buoys, several rubber gloves, whisky bottles and a few skeletons. Had tea in the VW, pasta wine and midges, then Lesley dropped T & I at the Dark Island . T & I sat with a crowd average age 60 listening to a fiddler group from Dunfermline. Tea in the interval missed the raffle prize, a bottle of sherry, by one number. Met John a drunken pan basherrrrrr who stays out on St Kilda hope to meet up. Stayed with Anne and Angus friends of Lesleys fab people Angus has made a pinhole camera from an old fridge I ask if I can film him in action.

30 AUG Sunday...I have just waved T and L off on the ferry, they are on there way home, L waved, T was probably still making her way up on crutches, bless, no driving for 6 weeks, no dancing at Shionas wedding. Norm just came in and now he has gone to his brothers for Sunday roast..... Me, I have some pot noodles.

31 AUG All day on ferry route from Lochmaddy to Uig, Skye then on to Pa....., Harris then back to Uig then back to Lochmaddy over 8 hours and such fun. Whilst getting my ticket I met Kenny, an accordian player I met on Saturday night he said he might write me a piece of music for Messages. Then I met Captain Roddy Morrisson a Lewis man keen to do an achingly painful London accent a joke on the Sassanach. He invited me to come to his cabin later!

I boarded and headed first for the cafeteria and a coffee, then as I passed the bar I heard music and who should be playing but the fiddlers from Dunfermline. I filmed their last two numbers but the sea was getting up and their bows were slipping. Then off to the Captains cabin......I found him there watching Corrie on tv....so I sat watching Curly being bamboozled & Rita say yes to wed , while outside the porthole my fellow travellers watched porpoises and whales frolicking. When it was over I switched on, he had been at sea all his life along with 3 brothers but would one day return to Harris get a small boat and some sheep, I wonder if he will, then a whistle blew and we were in Uig. Back up onto the bridge to watch the mooring process, very fast and efficient. 2nd mate Stevie took me aft and fore and explained starboard and port, 1st mate Archie told me a story about the Titanic, I learnt that maps are not maps but charts......I targeted a fishing boat on the radar listened in to the radio, filmed lots of dials and was treated to tea in the officers mess..cheese omelette, and baked beans followed by icecream and mandarin segments. Then the engine room... what a hunk of burning metal and such a noise. A most beguiling head engineer. Then filmed the trucks unloading and loading and realised that we were leaving Uig and I was homeward bound. So I surfaced and who should I see but Norm...who was the more surprised, I gave him a brief rundown of the above then headed back to the bridge hoping for a last few words from the captain but spent the rest of the journey with stevie 1st mate pointing out whales and porpoises to my unseeing eyes. I invited them all for a drink in the Lochmaddy hotel later. Met S leaving the boat so headed straight for hotel. The Captain stayed with his ship but stevie & others came ashore and after all my invitations would not let me buy a drink.

01 SEP I have been here 2 weeks, seems like longer. It is still pouring, I spend the day struggling with new technology but by the end of the day I have video capture capability. I have started to animate a rocket. And I have interviewed a girl who left the island with her 2 year old son to Glasgow never married he was a protestant she a catholic. Only 9 years ago and now she is going to return, should have been a perfect interviewee but nothing really worked as words. S returned at 6 after 7 hours in the post van....she says she had a lovely time, 7 hours without a fag! She went all round North Uist, up every path down every road I just wish she had taken my recorder, now I will have to do the same! We went for dinner and a pint then Sal retired. I went along to call home to put in a request for a radio, still feeling the loss. The midges are biting tomorrow we are off to Berneray before the causeway is complete, another ferry ride!

02 SEP Ferry to Berneray realise, no idea where to find the house of marine biologist. However four old folk leave their car to help & it direct me to The Turner house, the white house, past the crossroads at the bottom of the hill ...and I set off, I trying to shelter from the midges in Sals smoke to no avail. Sal and I waved our way forward. And after a false start found the house. Sal took the dog out while I start the interview all going well until the mike popped and it was over! Left in search of Sal & the empty house. We picnic on side of road and met a woman looking for Ben the sheepdog of which there are many and all with odd eyes. I discover I have left my map behind & stomped about a bit cursing while Sal & dog waited. We set off but the grass was bog and Sal and I separated she for the high road and beautiful white beaches, I the low field, for a damp and derelict old house. I knew the house when I saw it, a dead sheep carcass pointed the way. I found a gap and climbed in and time stopped. 1961, A catalogue offering tempting NEW styles for the smart young man, wall and floor coverings of my youth. The faded wall paper in the house featured a big house framed in flowers a bright shape where a frame had hung. Framed words from the allmighty and books of religious talk and tucked into one, a leaflet DEPRESSION, how to deal with it!

Upstairs the bed unmade, just left a slipper. On the window an empty birds nest, so big, an eagle? Then the letters, her sister in Canada sending her love to all, her friend a nurse, spinster training. Much talk of illness. Outside the rain was grey, pouring down and my thoughts turned to Sal. I headed back to the ferry, sheep scattering, met a farmer and his dog rounding them up, asked if a blonde lass and dog had passed, he told me he had seen her earlier with a fella, I told him that was me and we laughed heartily. I felt glad to be alive and headed back to Andrews house my useless recorder and map, Jess was curled up with a kitten in her basket tired out, Sal had just been by. I saw seals pretending to be otters in the harbour and then up ahead Sal, disguised as part of the machair, head to toe in sand, damp but happy and we walked back to the ferry. On the Uist side Otternish the school bus arrived and emptied a handful onto the ferry, and we got a ride with the big solemn dry humoured bus driver, he dropped us off on the main road with 'it's only 5 miles'..and raining and Sal had sore feet so we hitched. I expected an immediate lift but of the few cars that passed, none even slowed, so we pooled our resources turned and smiled and the lovely I the accountant with carrot hair picked us up and took us all the way home. Bless. Made Sal sleep on the floor... she was asleep in no time, so I didn't feel too guilty, I lay awake fretting so much to do..

03 SEP Beautiful morning Sal on the 7.30 ferry, saw a few familiar faces. Waved Sal off into the sunrise, I hope she saw the whales, I felt sad, there is something so sad about farewells on boats. Market day in Lochmaddy, film truck loads of sheep. noise, people, bumped into Berneray farmer with his sheep, learn that a sheep worth less than a pound. Sums do not add up. Spent rest of day writing request letters. Cheilead tomorrow night and noone to play with.

04 SEP Made poster and put up message box in cafÈ, wrestle with PC. No one mentions the dance. And everyone heads home at 5, the summer is over, Friday used to be a late nighter. I saunter up road feeling the outsider, to watch the football, it is a serious game and N.Uist is winning, hands hit car horns at each goal, I slip away at the whistle. Feeling a little footloose and as it is a lovely evening I risk the Super 8 and try a stop frame of the ferry arriving. Small pink fluffy clouds in the sky, I head back for an early night and a cuppa soup. At midnight manic banging on my window, A tries to persuade me to come dancing..I in my pjs decline, I am sober and resigned to a night in they are not. They wander noisily away and I turn off the light, fool.

05 SEP Up early, make another message box and take it to the ferry terminal, then wait for the bus to Benbecula, country music blares from the empty catttle shed, . A mini bus for 8 mile then change onto a coach to the airport. A arriving I locate the car hire woman, who tells me the plane has been replaced with a smaller and some luggage has not been loaded.. Selfishly I think of my tape and film supplies that Annie is bringing, until I see the size of the plane and wonder if she will be on it. All is well Annie and luggage arrive safely. A wee moment as Annie adjusts to a manual drive and then we are away in our classy, navy blue escort van for a w/e in the south, but first back to Lochmaddy to gather my things..so Annie has a 70 mile drive along single track roads and passing places, only hours after leaving London. She takes to it like a natural and I stop my advance approaching car warning system and relax. Our first night is amongst frills, bows and nylon in S.Uist 'where the street lights start'. We dine in the ------hotel to the sound of sirens, Casualty on TV my first since corrie and gaellic. Food was grim and we were tired so early to bed.

06 SEP Awoke to wind and rain, good breakfast three varieties of black, white and fruit pudding. To Ludag harbour, chatted with fishermen loading thousands of velvet crabs in boxes and into the Spanish arctic. waiting to transport them. No desire to join them in their journey to the sun, I doubt any could survive the journey, so tightly packed. Should have got my kit out but sometimes it ruins things and it was Sunday. Left them and drove up into hills until road stopped. Annie charmed by sheep and highland cows and posed amongst them until disapproving church goers scattered them and we made for the beach. Wind still strong but some sun so wandered picking up swan bones and strange crab shells and wondered at A's sudden obsession with the solitude..'I could murder you here, leave the island and no one would know..' We returned to the van for a Breakaway. i found a plastic shopping basket and collected message containers. the sea and sand blended into a silver softness but when we turned to return the sand was stinging so we walked in the machair and I lay down to photogaph the flowers and felt I never wanted to get up. The rain stirred us and we headed into Lochboisdale town centre.... There was a shop it was open, perfect a caf, gifts, toilets and clothes I bought some soft cotton combat trousers, toasties and coffees. We set off to find a b&b near to Ludag for the morning ferry, this is where our map reading survival skills kicked in and we drove down every path and stream retracing our steps time and time again I jumping in and out filming pylons and possibly stretching A's patience though she says not..before finally returning to our start point and booking in at the croft house. Opened the red wine we had in the glove compartment, ate olives and cheese and our mood mellowed. Slept well.

07 SEP Breakfast broke the ice with the crofter woman and chatted enough to be too late to have to eat it and raced down to the ferry with a wave. Ferryman I was to interview had taken the day off.. shy and retiring fishermen subs spoke to me but so softly spoken I doubt it can be heard, they said the other fellow would be back the next day.. Met Father Colin a handsome priest dude with a twinkle and aftershave... He a Uist man living in Equador charming and heroic, he has had threats to his life and many run ins with the corrupt while working dilligently for his barrio people, I later learned that he had water skiid whilst playing accordian around Castlebay, Barra. To raise money for Equador.. What a hero if all priests were like that... sadly I didn't record him boat too noisy, but his message to me was a prayer, I have since learnt there is a song about him. Onto the bus to Castlebay. The sun is out and shining and Barra is beautiful. off the bus and into sunshine and warm welcomes, sit, drink coffee and write postcards, all begin with 'the sun is shining'. Finally stir in search of bus to barra beach airport & b&b .

To the airport, arrived on post bus in time to miss plane landing due partly to drunken ex merchant seaman on bus who was very taken with Annie working at Canary Wharf, he had too in his sea faring past. Luckily for us because, while waiting for the plane to return from a brief trip to Benbecula, on which I sent my recorder in the company of a couple from Glasgow, we met jack CHARLTON I heard his voice first, unmistakable, and I got his autograph after a wee confusion when he asked me my name and I thought he was asking which team I supported....nearly had him write, To Arsenal, from Jack Charlton..sorted out the muddle though with his wifes assistance and I got all giggly and flushed..and had to stand outside. Wait for the plane to return. annie joined me and then JACK joined us....and chattted on about fishing, Marlow, Bisham Abbey, film versus video, and I missed the plane landing again ! The glasgow couple arrived back with recorder all flushed with excitement, from the ride. I filmed the take off & we all headed back to Barra on the post bus happy and Donald the driver gave me a good interview. headed to the hotel bar for a celebratory drink. Saw Jack on the way he waved we waved, the bar is the first real bar I have seen yet, pool table-green and tables and chairs, didn't want to leave and indeed should not have but had to interview man at the b&b, an enthusiastic interviewee, meant missed hotel food only a bloody mary & guiness to revive us! enough said.

08 SEP Terrible night sleep, combination of hunger, wind whistling through the house. Early call not early enough no time for breakfast ..onto bus back out to ferry. Feeling rough and for the first time a little worried about the journey but as the bus filled up with the sweetest children things improved. Tiny ones helped on by bigger ones even tinier ones left with their mums waving goodbye, Our bus driver carefully delivered her load then drove to the ferry, it was late and I was recovered enough to talk to her on the record and so glad I did she told some tales I feel sure I will use, lovely.. And the ferry man was back on. I watched the gannets diving and looked out for the bottle nose dolphins back to Ludag then outward to Eriskay. I made my way forward and another good interview, again I was struck by the strength of family, importance of children, the safety and also how accepting & non judgemental. The ferry men waved us off, and we walked up to the Politician a pub..a picture of stone walls, smoking chimney and warm welcome in our minds, the reality was a 1960s British Legion style building , though built in the 80s and it was shut. It was raining, though softly so we wandered to a beach and sat in a sheltered spot then wandered back..it was open, just.. Ate expensive & cold cockles & mussels, coffee, apple pie & cream and then a whisky galore, at which point there were 3 of us in. Finally left pub raining still softly. Set off in search of stages of cross paintings..found them after long winding walk and few detours thus late for ferry, a mad dash until a fisherman stopped offering a lift. Ferry back to Ludag, felt very sad to say goodbye, Eriskay is my place. Back to Lochmaddy straight in for food at hotel and who's there but Jack making a call on the call box, the one with the no's rubbed off. Pleased to see he had a struggle too. Too tired to walk and longing for bed I returned to TC to find highest tide..room flooded, only 3" but still, I move things off the floor 'The sea and beyond' taken a little too literally, I went for the mop & the tide turned and as I watched it went down leaving just a puddle and some shrimpy sea creatures. I fell into bed, and piled everything else on top.

09 SEP woke up dry but damp. A quiet day.another note confirmed a helicopter flight to St Kilda,thanks to Anne the Scottish Heritage offered a date Tues 15...fab. Knees are twinging, cycling or a sure sign of damp.

10 SEP Rain, I spent the day at the rocket range! Banshees and other toys for boys, the trip was a little wasted on me and I felt like a bit of a fraud whilst listening to detailed description of 'transformers' & the like, but met some men from the Met. who gave me a weather balloon innards! Saw St Kildas radar was treated well and kept dry and had a lift home in a new Land rover, so tall. Note on my door from A & R..'We are here see you in the hotel at 8', unexpected I cannot believe they are here. we had a meal they have found a b&b near solas, arrange to meet again Fri eve, there is a dance in Carinish Hall

11 SEP Prepare for after school workshop and head off with Anne to Benbecula, clouds are gathering. Workshop goes fine Driving back see a rainbow which becomes a double and arches across the road no camera so enjoy. Anne and I drive through it and stop to get my washing, I finally gave in and took Anne up on her offer to wash a few things. Clean clothes without labour..fab. Fall asleep and want to stay there but shower and A calls round & head to hotel. A & R arrive & R entertains the bar room boys by showing them how he plays pool & dances, from the hip, such a contrast in both colour & personality but all seem taken by him, especially the little boy at his B&B who keeps bringing his friends round to see this black african man. We make it through to 11, time to head to the dance, want Renatus to see the dance. 8 miles in driving rain to the hall, it is tiny and full, and more formal than Lochmaddy, the dancing leaves Renatus cold, I wish I knew the steps well enoughand could take him around, but we watch a while drink our juice and quite thankfully head home, see the stag on the road, & lots of rabbits caught in our headlights.

12 SEP Oversleep, sun is out it is a beautiful day A's last. I throw my bike in van & we drive to the airport, where I order a full cooked breakfast. We sit until A has to go feels as though A has been here a month, sad for me but I think sadder for her now that the western isles are sparkling again. I film her plane leave and cycle up to spar for papers & picnic, I cycle slowly back to Lochmaddy, stopping at the causeway to film Passing place moments, it takes me ages and it is early eve as I return A & R arrive from their trip south and we have a meal. Bed, I am aching, a little worrying for horse riding tomorrow.

13 SEP Sunday. A & R arrive before their ferry leaves, A & I have a coffee & R writes his message for the box, then they leave. I write some letters then layer up for the riding, cycling shorts seem like a good idea. Webster my horse, half shire by the size of his hooves, we walk, then trot up,down, down,down up then onto the beach, walk, trot then Webster breaks into a canter and I am no longer holding the saddle, the weather is dreamy and I am in a Western world until he stumbles, his feet are so big. A horse after my heart. Stay out at Fionas have a bath!, meet ------ the prawn man very funny, sounds like Robbie Coltrane and a who is sean connery sound alike, candlelight and small talk about prawns and lobsters. Then bed, warm & carpetted, Mmmm.

14 SEP No pain at first, drove in with Fiona, got out to open gate & legs like John Wayne. Trying to get messages ready for tomorrow, laminating, scanning J helps. Archie & Rhoda lend me a drill and saw and Joe cuts & drills bits of wood & I tie them on finally at the end of the day I have 16 messages to launch from St Kilda, then it will be done and I can concentrate on the real work! A quiet meal in Lochmaddy hotel, Callum at bar says he will give me a lift tomorrow, a stranger to me but Grace told him, he is a man of few words, he'll pick up at 8 he is flying at 9. my flight is not until 11 but a lift is welcome. Bed, hoping I will wake, no alarm, but I do at last have a radio, Renatus lent me his, bless.

15 SEP Awake and ready when Callum arrives, he works in St Kilda 1 month on 1 off, funny and interesting drive . He dropped me & went on to the air field, I wandered towards the airport cafÈ. Closed, at 8.45 not much happening so I took to the beach & set up shot for 9. helicopter take off, and waited. It is huge and looked wonderful heading out to sea. Back to cafÈ. Surprised when Callum walked in, wind too strong only carry half load, I see my trip receding and sure enough. I am very apologetically informed by a soldier that I have been bumped. I ask to film the copter land & take off and he agrees, so I head back to cafÈ disheartened and realise that I should try to send the messages, so with much embarressment on both our parts I offer up my bin bag of messages and Callum takes them for me promises to launch them that eve.

I have fallen deeply in love with the Bristow tiger, 25 yrs old with the cutest red curves. So much so that Ginge the engineer takes me under his wing and sorts me a place on the 3rd trip, only a ride to St Kilda, land, load, then return but I am over the moon. Interview Ginge, and the army fella, lots of banter & double entendres, just boys really! Have lunch with a girl I went riding with she is still walking with a swing too, then back to put on my orange suit with rubberized cuffs a hood and feet. Ginge sorts me the front seat, the pilots let me film up the front though visibility is nil as we run into a heavy shower and the wipers aren't working, the clouds clear and St K is ahead. Off the copter unload I run about in my orange suit filming but no time, the march of the orange clad men and I am being loaded back on too. We lift & turn very sharply and the view is that of the history books, the outline of the village, the hills then the sea. Feel a bubble of excitement at the thought, wonder how difficult it is to become a copter pilot. Peel of the orange suit say my goodbyes and head back to the cafÈ to find a bus. The post bus, in 1 hour, time to think will the messages get sent? Evening, to the school for a meeting by Andrew Roger about the environment, very well attended learnt lots about Lochmaddy and its specialness, wish I could dive.

16 SEP Wind howling woke me, hope those messages don't reach these shores before I leave. Fiona Campbell picking me up at 8.20 to go up to Paible school not sure of the plan. Show a somewhat bewildered english class some animation techniques..spiders and slugs and frogs. The second class is better but still not too clear what purpose I am serving. Meet head teacher in staff room and ask him for an interview. It started and ended with the bell ringing, good he is a slow and thoughtful speaker, nice bits about leaving home every child at school had to go. As we leave F's car exhaust fell off, I had my head under car tying string in place as the dance accordian player passed by. Made it to TC & put a message page up on Internet, just in case...first time. Ferry, late with the wind J & N & a full car, had a drink in hotel & arranged to meet tomorrow. Caught up at last. Now bed.

17 SEP Woke up early a beautiful day, considered filming the ferry leaving, but tried sleep instead. Filming Kenny playing the accordian today if the weather holds, it's a good start, but I miss the bus & have to re arrange for later I play instead with Coisti who is in a strange mood after weeks of distant friendliness inspired entirely by my throwing sticks. Today he seems to be softer, he rolled over & licked my hand will he miss me I doubt but I will miss him, today I feel my departure is imminent one week today I will be heading for London. Meet Kenny at the airport & head off to record some music,I film Kenny with a wild eyed collie anxious to chase sticks in the foreground, then it rains & the accordian has to take shelter. On our return as we cross the causeway the mobile library approaches & at the passing place we stop, the driver is 'Donald the blonde' & he is a pipe player, Kenny merely mentions my quest for music and he picks up his Chanter from the dashboard & starts to play, a whole song ,a wonderful moment, & a true musician the pied piper of the islands. Back to TC for tea and Rhodas cake, thank Kenny and we part. Play with Coistie a while until Jane waves from the hotel and Coisti and I wander back down, I will miss him & our walks . The wind is howling, Norm has just passed by to check on his strange sculpture, drying upstairs, will he miss me I 'll bet he will.

21 SEP Woke up with a big, bad hangover to the sound of Archies knock. Headed up to PO. Lachay was there, I had missed him by 5 mins yesterday but he agrees to let me back again at 3. Return to the frenzied TC, preparing for the SAC visit. I resign myself to a day on the PC trying to get sorted, feeling none too good & not helped by jazz drives inability to save my work . The SAC arrive & the woman must have checked the web site because she says she nearly left me a message, & will do so on Monday. I felt pleased at least something was up & running, if a little thin on info! Starving so went to cafe, a picture, Rhoda surrounded by dark flock of ministers eating biscuits drinking tea I took refuge in the kitchen offered a hand with the washing up, enjoyed it, the sensation of having a real sink & space to wash up in. She paid me with a fabulous Salmon sandwhich which I wolfe down then head up to PO. We had a fine chat, he even turned the burring fridge off for me, but most of my questions related to life before his time, he has only been there 25 years! I did learn why some letter boxes are covered, to prevent birds nesting..and a wee dog chasing postman story. I took a photo & headed back to TC. The gang are still in a big meeting so I decide to dismantle my bike in readiness for the bus ride tomorrow. They return looking quite happy so assume all has gone well. They still have another meeting to go so I do my final packing, still can't fit it all in even though every visitor has taken something for me. Then finally to the pub, Fiona, Joe, SAC, Helen! Anne & new artist in residence, conversation continues about their meeting I am holding my eyes open. so sad & a wee bit subdued I left the Lochmaddy Hotel for the last time.